How to formulate with Helioguard™ 365
Summer is (hopefully) around the corner, so have a look at our guide how to formulate with the natural UV-screening active Helioguard™ 365.
Algae ingredients have been established in cosmetic products for years. They are considered natural, highly effective and make us think of the sea while we are at home in an urban area.
Helioguard™ 365 is a liposomal algae ingredient that protects our skin from photo-aging. In other words, a perfect companion through everyday urban life.
But what is the best way to process this liposomal, marine active ingredient?
Helioguard™ 365 is a red algae extract. Due to its origin, it may still contain small amounts of divalent electrolytes despite purification after the manufacturing process. It is recommended to use an electrolyte-stable gelling agent. It is also advantageous if the desired emulsifier system does not react to 2-valent ions and break down over time. Fortunately, there are already many different raw materials on the market that fulfil these criteria.
Another point is the liposomal encapsulation of Helioguard™ 365. Liposomes are not miscible with oils, but with water. In combination with ethanol, a concentration of 20% should not be exceeded. The liposomes may become unstable at higher concentrations.
Helioguard™ 365 can be processed well at temperatures up to 50°C. Even high-speed homogenization does not harm the liposomes.
To prevent instabilities, such as loss of viscosity, which only occur over a longer period of time, we recommend to add Helioguard™ 365 only after emulsification, at below 50°C. A stable, fully developed emulsifier system is a very good basis for long product stability.
Further helpful information can be found in the Formulation Guidelines.